Roopkund is lake situated at around 4,800 meters above sea level (16,500feet). It is also known as the skeleton lake because there are more than 500 skeletons submerged inside that lake. Roopkund is a very good trekking destination, which takes 9 days to complete the entire stretch because of the high altitude.
I came to know about this trek somewhere in mid 2012, and then wanted to go there.This year I made up my mind. In Dussehra season, it happened within a week. Planned everything just in 7 days before the trek!! I wasn’t sure after booking the flight tickets, if I had done the right decision or not. I along with my friend set out for this trek, adventure nonetheless. And met another Guy from Chennai in Delhi, who was going for the same trek as we were. I got to admire his courage though.Since we planned it just one week before the trek, we couldn’t get the train tickets to Katgodham (from where IndiaHikes takes us), so reserved 3 seats in Kalpana Travels to Katgodham. We boarded the bus in the night around 9:30pm from the Anand Vihar. The bus was in horrible condition (we regretted our decision there itself). The worst part was they were trying to fill all the seats in the bus wherever possible; He went to Noida stopped there for an hour. Then came back then stopped for 1/2 hour. Well, we were not happy about the condition of the bus; on top of that they were doing this. Well, Kalpana still reminds of the worst possible Trip to Katgodham. (Reaching the destination 2 hours later than we anticipated). It was an experience though!!!
First day full of journey from Khatgodham railway station to the Roopkund base camp at Lohajung. It’s 10 hours of journey in the Mountains and valleys. We didn’t have time to Freshen up. We got down near the Katgodham railway station and boarded the cab. We joined the 2 guys (registered for the trek) waiting for us. Apparently they are from Hyderabad. And that’s how the Group was formed. (5 of us) We didn’t know who rests of the 21 registered people are.
Our driver stopped for breakfast near some Dhaba on the way, We got freshen up and ate like crazy (Rotis, different but good none the less). Then again started and we didn’t have any lunch in-between since we were heavy with breakfast. We reached Lohajung base camp in the evening around 7:30pm.
Day 1: Lohajung Base camp to Didina Village
Didina Village, One of the remote places in the world. |
It’s the deep downhill trek in the dense forest, and the time to take out trekking pole out of the bag! I tried to balance with my rhythm with my prior experience in downhill trekking. At the end of the downhill there flows a river, so fresh, so blue, so rushing yet so calm. The “Neel Ganga” River. I haven’t seen a river as clean and as beautiful as this in my lifetime. You just got to believe that the Ganga is still the purest form of water. (Before it enters into land of civilization). We refilled our bottles there and just ate the dry ration that we have collected in the base camp before starting the trek.
2 Floor home stay in Didina Village. |
Day 2: Didina village to Bedni Bhugyal (via Ali Bhugyal)
Clouds playing hide and seek with Snow capped mountains |
Well, that’s Day no.2. With sudden altitude gain of 3,500feet and temperature drop of 2-3 degrees. (Wait, we are still in single digit :P )!! We had lunch again there; there was nothing different in the menu this time. Same Roti and curry and flavored rice! Anyway I was hungry and I just ate. Some of my friends reluctantly ate it. Then we are assigned with our tents (3 in 1). We kept our bag inside and came out to play cricket (Probably the cricket played at the highest possible height, close to 13000feet). Looks like Lord Varuna was not happy about it and he suddenly started to pour hails, Wow, it was hailstorm! (First time experience). It continuously poured the hailstones for more than 1/2 hour. While we went inside our tent and shivering out of chill! (2-4’C). There was no sleeping bag inside our tent.
Then it started, discussion about various things, started cracking jokes. You know all the “PUNNY” Jokes. Yes, that’s what happens when you have Joker in your team! You don’t know what you really want to do after hearing those dialogues (laugh or cry).
Never ending meadows of Ali Bhugyal. |
Well then it opens up to the north, to see the Majestic Mt. Trishul. It was a Jaw Dropping view of Mt. Trishul in the last rays of the day! You got to see it if you want to know what really am talking about. Then no clouds! It was full moon day and Moon was rising from other side!! Making everything in the camp visible without the need of any torchlight. 7:30pm, and it was soup time. Yay..In that bone biting cold, having a cup of hot soup feels great. Total bliss I would say!
Then in 1/2 hour another whistle for dinner!! (Same menu but few extra things, sweets).
Then right after the dinner we saw the Mt. Trishul glowing in the Moon light.!! What else you need, ending the long tiring day like this, isn’t it?
Day 3: Bedni Bhgyal to Bagwabasa
Reflection of the Mt. Trishul in the clear Bedni Kund |
A steep ascent after that, and we got to see some traces of the Ice, which was residue remaining from the last hailstorm it seems! White patches here and there clearly visible. We tried to keep our foot on it, and it was completely slippery after having exposed to morning sun; it was expected anyway. Then we actually realized we are in the ridge between two near mountains. Everything was clearly visible from there, chowkambha, Nanda gunti, Mt. Trishul. It’s the time for dry ration that we collected in the morning.
Bedni Bhugyal Campsite. |
After few hours of gradual walk, we reached a campsite in Patal Nachauni (at least that’s what they call!). We had lunch there, Lemon rice this time. For a hungry soul, anything is like Panchamrutha. As it was already 12.00pm and clouds were playing hide and seek with the mountains. And the wind was becoming chilly and suddenly it started to rain. We took out our raincoat for the first time in the trek!! The entire stretch was steep, very narrow and covered with clouds, we were unable to see everything past few feet! We felt like we are walking in Mordor!! So chilly it was; everyone was down during in this particular stretch. It was completely visible from their face and body language.:P. I would say I walked the mordor with 9kg in my back. It was never ending stretch; time seemed to go very slow while we were struggling. Einstein’s quote seemed so true at that moment “ when a man sits with a pretty girl for an hour, it seems like a minute. But let him sit on hot stove for a minute and it’s longer than any hour”.
We reached Kalu Vinayak mandir at the top of the mountain after hours of struggle!! (We slogged like never before)! It was very chilly; I didn’t even bothered to take out camera to click some pictures! Then it’s normal walk in the narrow way towards bagwabasa. They said it’s 15mins walk from Kalu Vinayak mandir, but that 15mins never seemed to over. Finally we reached what we call bagwabasa campsite. It’s in the foot of giant icy mountains! Visibility was low and more traces of snow now.
We just wanted to lie down inside the sleeping bags a.s.a.p. that day. We got inside the tent and spent the time. Then It was 7:00pm and we had dinner and slept off.
Day 4: Summit Day Bagwabasa -> Roopkund Lake -> Junargali Pass -> Bhagwabasa -> Patal Nachauni
Roopkund Lake (The skeleton lake) |
Junargali Pass |
Having hiked so far and to be on the summit!
It was trishul and Nanda Gunti! Which sto
od much taller than the current one. Could be 2000meters more than this one.
The Bhagwabasa Campsite (in the balcony of Himalayas) |
sit and relax a bit. Since the day was started for us 3am in the morning and everyone was tired. There was no other option but to reach the Patal Nachauni campsite as soon as possible. Since this particular camp is almost removed and if we dared to stay here, we would freeze to death for sure without sleeping bags and proper tents! So, we time boxed our waiting period for the hailstorm to get over. But it still continued past 2:30pm. So wore our raincoat and set out in the open to reach the next campsite. On the way we stopped nearby Kalu vinalak mandir again to have water and dry food. Then again it was total downhill with clouds all over us. Visibility was much less; even the person in the 20 meters distance could not be reached. We descended down in the brisk pace. But this tiredness, lack of sleep, let us down! We walked almost 2 hours again downhill. That time never seemed to end like the other day. Finally we reached patal nachauni campsite and walked directly into the tents and then into the sleeping bag. Such a tiring day it was. Since the camp has been setup in the open end of the mountain. It wind was very chilly, Could not with stand chilly wind after that tiring day.
We walked almost for 14hours that day! There by beating my personal record of 12hours back in Western Ghats. :P
Day 5: Patal Nachauni -> Gairoli Patal (via Bedni Bhugyal)
Playing Cricket @ 12,500feet |
Gairoli Patal Campsite. |
We reached Gairoli Patal campsite. The most beautiful campsite of the trek! (Inside the forest), It has everything one can ask for. We wandered around the campsite in exploring various things, the kind of trees, slope, streams and stocks are mind blowing. We played volleyball, and it was total fun. Then we were asked to collect the fallen wooden pieces to setup a campfire. Then it was the campfire and every team had to perform something for the campfire. We had very good time performing around the campfire.
Day 6: Gairoli Patal -> Lohajung base camp (via Van village)
The flowing water stream on the way to Van. |
We reached Lohajung, our base camp and had lunch!! Then called my home to tell about the entire adventure. Meanwhile everyone took shower after so many days! It was a refreshing moment. It was a time for us to try different food, other than what we ate in the camp. Nothing can be better than tasting some Maggi noodles after so many days (with some chilies of course, that’s what we missed in the camp).
Time to say Bye:-
Our Hiking Batch @ Roopkund summit. |
e us to Katgodham to catch our bus or train to Delhi. On the way, all those mountains looking as if they are calling us again, we stopped multiple times to look around. Finally at 5:30pm we reached Katgodham railway station, our reservation request was still in waiting list. We were not sure if we should take train or bus. Then we decided to go by bus from the Haldwani Station. After having dinner in a local hotel, we boarded the bus. The bus was in good condition; unlike the bus we have taken the other day from Delhi to Katgodham.
I had done different kinds of treks back in Western Ghats, but I would say this was the first of its kind, very unique experience in terms altitude, weather and accessibility. Totally into the wild!!
Everything seems to change after first Himalayan Trek. You will not be the same person as before. Many things you learn in this kind of activity that, it will become of part of your daily life.
Our Guide used to say, “Mountains are mirrors who we are!”; and we realized, it is very much true.
Now I wouldn’t regret having done this particular expedition, and it is the most memorable adventure I had till date.